Welcome to The Revival List, where forgotten wines get a second chance to shine.
Each week, I’ll introduce you to an under-the-radar grape or wine style that’s making a well-deserved comeback. These aren’t just delicious discoveries—they’re wines with history, crafted by passionate artisans who are keeping tradition alive while redefining the future of wine.
Expect to find your next favorite bottle, support small producers, champion diversity in the wine world, and have a great story to share at your next get-together. Because who doesn’t love a good comeback?
Here’s what we’ve uncovered so far:
This week is all about….
Trousseau is one of the wine world’s many intriguing comeback varieties, an ancient grape making waves in both its region of origin and other unexpected regions. Once nearly forgotten outside of France’s Jura region, it has resurfaced as a darling among natural wine lovers and adventurous drinkers. Let’s dive into its fascinating history, flavors, and perfect pairings.
Origin: Jura, France
Trousseau originates from the Jura wine region in eastern France, nestled between Burgundy and Switzerland. This indigenous grape, alongside Poulsard, plays a crucial role in Jura’s red wine production, both in single varietal wines and in blends.
Jura’s Arbois appellation, where approximately 70% of Jura’s red wines are produced, is home to some of the most respected Trousseau wines.
Today, Trousseau’s reach extends far beyond France:
Spain: Known as Merenzao or Verdejo Negro, Trousseau was once a major part of Rioja’s winemaking under the name Maturana Tinta. Though nearly wiped out by phylloxera in the 19th century, dedicated viticulturists have been reviving the grape. In 2007, Rioja’s wine regulatory board officially recognized Maturana Tinta for use in DOC wines.
Portugal: Called Bastardo, it is a traditional component in Port production and was historically used in Madeira wine, though nearly extinct there today.
United States: Found in California and Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where winemakers are embracing its nuanced character.
Varietal Character & Wine Style
Trousseau wines are typically light to medium-bodied, yet they pack an aromatic punch and have excellent aging potential. The grape’s high natural sugar content often leads to alcohol levels around 13-14%, making for powerful yet balanced wines. Expect:
Flavors & Aromas: Bright red berries (strawberries, raspberries, cherries), spice (pepper, cloves), earthy and floral notes.
Structure: Moderate tannins, fresh acidity, and a vibrant, layered complexity.
Aging Potential: Gains depth and nuance over time.
Comparable Mainstream Grapes
Pinot Noir (Burgundy, cool-climate regions): Shares a delicate body, red fruit, and earthy undertones.
Gamay (Beaujolais Cru): Light but structured with spice and juicy red fruit flavors.
Mencia (Bierzo, Spain): Fresh acidity, red and dark berry fruit, and mineral-driven characteristics akin to Trousseau.
Recommended Food Pairings
Trousseau’s lively acidity and spice make it a versatile food wine. Try pairing it with:
Meat: Roasted or herb-roasted chicken, grilled steak, smoked sausages.
Cheese: Hard cow’s milk cheeses (Morbier), Brie, blue cheese, aged cheddar.
Pasta & Vegetarian: Mushroom pasta, creamy sauces, tangy salads with vinaigrettes.
Seafood: Grilled or roasted fish with herb-driven seasonings.
Charcuterie: A natural match with cured meats and olives.
Trousseau in the Vineyard
Trousseau thrives in cool climates but requires sufficient sunlight for ripening. Key vineyard characteristics include:
Prefers limestone and clay soils with good drainage.
Harvested in late September to early October.
Susceptible to frost and mildew, requiring careful vineyard management.
Careful canopy management and irrigation help maintain flavor purity.
Top Producers
If you’re looking to explore some of the best Trousseau wines available, consider these standout producers:
Domaine André et Mireille Tissot (Arbois) – A popular biodynamic producer in Jura, Tissot makes some of the most sought-after Trousseau wines, showcasing precision, depth, and the unique expression of Arbois terroir. You can also explore some of their Jura whites via Flatiron Wine & Spirits.
Domaine du Pélican (Arbois) – “Few names in the wine world carry the same weight as d’Angerville. Based in Volnay, the domaine is responsible for some of the most elegant and complex wines in Burgundy. An hour’s drive east in the Jura, Guillaume d’Angerville founded Domaine du Pélican in 2012. Just as d’Angerville does in Burgundy, they organically and biodynamically farm the region’s best vineyard sites” (Source: Somm Cellars Wine)
This estate has gained a reputation for elegant, well-structured Trousseau that balances tradition with innovation.
Domaine Ganevat (La Combe de Rotalier) – Known for its natural, low-intervention winemaking, Ganevat produces Trousseau that is both distinctive and highly regarded among Jura wine enthusiasts.
Domaine de la Pinte (Arbois) – This estate has a strong reputation for Jura reds, including Trousseau, often made with a focus on organic and biodynamic viticulture.
I haven’t had a Trousseau in ages, so I ordered this one from SF Flatiron Wine & Spirits: Fumey-Chatelain Arbois Trousseau 2022.
I have yet to pop it open, as the box just arrived this evening, but I will return here to update this article with my tasting notes once I do!
Where to Find Trousseau in the U.S.
While Trousseau can be tricky to track down, these online retailers carry pretty solid selections:
Producers in the U.S.: Stolpman Winery (California)...I’m sure there are others, but that’s the only one I’m familiar with.
If you know of others you love, drop them in the comments below!
Trousseau’s Comeback Story
Once on the brink of obscurity, Trousseau is enjoying a modern revival, driven by:
The rise of natural wine enthusiasts, who appreciate its unfiltered, expressive character.
A new generation of winemakers in Jura and beyond, dedicated to preserving tradition while innovating with the grape.
A growing interest in rare, terroir-driven wines, making Trousseau a must-try for adventurous drinkers.
Jura wines have captured the attention of sommeliers and collectors worldwide, and Trousseau is playing a starring role in this renaissance. If you haven’t tried this fascinating variety yet, now is the perfect time to explore its depth, history, and charm. Santé! 🍷
Share this post