Visit These Wineries If You're Headed to McLaren Vale
McLaren Vale is an absolutely gorgeous wine region located on South Australia’s Fleurieu Peninsula just 22 miles (35 kilometers) south of Adelaide. There is something on offer to suit every palate with around 80 cellar doors and a variety of tasting experiences to choose from. The region is home to both large scale and boutique producers. Over one third of McLaren Vale’s wineries take advantage of the abundant seasonal produce on the Fleurieu Peninsula, incorporating the region’s products within tasting experiences – from high-end, starred restaurants to custom made platters.
The region can proudly claim the title of the birthplace of wine in South Australia. McLaren Vale was founded by John McLaren in 1838. The families of William Colton and Charles Hewitt were the first to settle there. Both were immigrants from Devonshire who established the Daringa and Oxenberry farms, encouraging others to immigrate to the region by accounts of their farming success. Oxynberry is still around today producing award winning wines. Grapes were first planted in McLaren Vale in 1839 by Thomas Hardy and John Reynell. Both men went on to start wineries of their own — Hardy founded the Australian giant Hardy Wine Company and Reynell started Seaview. Today, McLaren Vale boasts a massive 6,000+ hectares under vine.
In addition to South Australia’s oldest region, McLaren Vale is also the most picturesque. The region rests between the Mount Lofty Ranges and the Gulf of St. Vincent, bound in the northwest by the Onkaparinga River. Visitors should be prepared for stunning views as rolling hills lined with vineyards give way to ocean views.
Climate
The McLaren Vale region is described by many as the Mediterranean of Australia with mild winters, warm summers, and seasonal rainfall that typically shows up around late autumn and winter. The vicinity to the Gulf of St. Vincent provides a maritime influence helping to cool the vineyards during hot, dry summers. Regional winds also blow down the Mount Lofty slopes and in from the Gulf to help cool the vines. Elevation ranges from 0-417m. Rainfall averages 225mm over the growing season and around 600mm per year. Many micro and meso climates can be found throughout the region due to diverse topography.
Soil
This large region boasts over 40 separate geological configurations. Soil types vary between yellow clay, limestone, red/brown loam, terra rossa, and sandy soils. Red or brown loamy sand soils are quite common. Generally, soils in the region are fairly free draining.
Grape Varieties
Though McLaren Vale is home to a wide range of varieties, Shiraz reigns supreme claiming 50% of the region’s vineyards. McLaren Vale Shiraz can be full-bodied with pronounced notes of spices, bitter chocolate, and dark berries or can be more nuanced and medium bodied with notes of raspberries. The flavor profile depends on the site where the wine was grown. In more recent years the region has been recognized for outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and even more so Grenache. Australian wine critic James Halliday even likened McLaren Vale Grenache to that of the Rhône Valley.
More and more Mediterranean varieties are being planted in this Mediterranean-esque climate. Think Vermentino, Fiano, Sangiovese, Barbera, Savignan, and more! Reds are definitely favored here with production at around 90% red wine to 10% white wine.
The D'Arenberg Cube - A Wine Experience Unlike any other
Why Visit D’Arenberg?
You want the ultimate wine tasting experience in South Australia
You appreciate art and architecture
You long for a wine tasting experience showcasing variety
You’re in search of the best views in McLaren Vale and/or some Instagrammable scenes
You want to be wowed
D’Arenberg - The Winery
Established in 1912, d’Arenberg has always been a pioneering force amidst the McLaren Vale wine scene. The winery’s origins can be traced back to some seriously successful horse bets, a failed attempt at a medical degree, and a generous father. The short of it goes a little something like this – Frank Osborn gets sick during university and fails to obtain his medical degree.
Frank’s dad, Joseph Osborn, is balling out following significant success at the horse race track. He decides to purchase the d’Arenberg property, then known as Bundarra, and encourages his son to take up the land. The family soon plants the first vineyards – 8 acres of Shiraz, of course! Frank’s first vintage yields 100 tons which sell for an ‘outrageous’ price (ha!) of 20£ per ton.
Frank eventually marries Helena d’Arenberg and, after much encouraging, his wine industry mentor/brother-in-law convinces Frank to start making wine and build a winery of his own. In 1928, Frank begins sales with a dry red table wine and a port style wine intended for the export market. The business continues to grow over the next 15 years.
When Frank never fully recovers his health following the Great War his son, Francis d’Arenberg Osborn, a.k.a. d’Arry, leaves school at the age of 16 to work at the winery full time. Decades later, d’Arry launches his own wine label under the name d’Arenberg with the winery’s signature red stripe inspired by his school uniform from Prince Alfred College. Today, current winemaker and 4th generation vintner Chester Osborn (d’Arry’s son) continues the family affair producing interesting Australian wines under traditional, labor-intensive methods.
D’Arenberg produces a massive range of wines from Riesling to Rhône, Bordeaux, Spanish, and even some Italian varieties. Over the years, the wines have received international recognition and awards. The winery is one of few in Australia to find success in exports to the European market. For more on the d’Arenberg story or the numerous accolades the wine, restaurants, and the Cube have garnered, click here.
The Cube
Standing as a beacon for the South Australian wine industry and South Australian tourism in general, the Cube offers a wine oriented experience unlike any other. The Cube itself is a multi-level, multi-function building set amongst the d’Arenberg vineyards. You can literally spot it from a mile away beckoning you to come play.
The experience begins upon approaching the Cube’s entrance as ambient, sonic-sounding music floats up from the surrounding vines. After being warmly greeted by staff and paying the $10 entrance fee, you are escorted into the sensory room. The walls of this room are dreamily covered in beautiful faux flowers setting an enchanting mood. Glass jugs attached to the walls of the room are filled with different scents of specific aromas you are likely to discover in wine. Guests squeeze the rubber ball to emit the aroma from a small horn attached to the top of the jugs. Then smell the aromas of currants, coffee, lemon, vanilla, violets, plum, etc.
The first floor also houses the Alternate Realities museum and a 360 degree video viewing room that details the history of d’Arenberg with some eccentric twists. The other Cube experiences are just a short elevator ride away. The second floor houses the winery offices, function spaces, and is currently home to an authentic Salvador Dali sculptural art exhibit for a limited time.
On the third floor you’ll find the d’Arenberg Cube Restaurant which sort of has this cubic, minimalist vibe that flows with the venue’s other design elements. Michelin starred chefs and husband-wife duo Brendan Wessels and Lindsay Durr have created an exquisite nine or five course degustation menu. Guests can also opt for a more intimate dining experience at the chef’s table.
The cellar door tops the Cube on the fourth floor. Guests are invited to choose from an expansive tasting list of 30+ wines while bellying up to the wrap-around bar in the center of the room. And when I say expansive, I mean expansive. Think Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Riesling, Mencía, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sagrantino, Cinsault, and more! Not to mention dessert and fortified wines. Decorated with whimsical artwork and topped by a screen with moving imagery, this is no regular bar. And not your average tasting list to match.
The best part of the Cube’s cellar door are the views! Stepping out onto the balcony on the west side of the building gives the ultimate photo-op with a gorgeous view from d’Arenberg’s estate vineyards all the way to the sea.
A second balcony on the opposite side of the Cube provides just as gorgeous views of McLaren Vale’s surrounding vineyards. Even without going outside, you can take in the views through the artistically cut windows while sipping on your vino.
In addition to tastings at the bar, the Cube has a lovely area reserved for seated tastings and a private tasting room for their premium wine flights.
The design is definitely unique and I enjoyed spotting all the details. I especially loved how the elevator doors were framed by an arch of colorful winery pump hoses reminiscent of a rainbow.
The Cube is quite the experience and definitely a must see when visiting South Australia. The eccentric and quirky elements give the venue a unique personality that begs to be experienced. I can’t say I have ever been to a winery quite like this one.
Paxton Wines – Premium Vineyard Sites in McLaren Vale
Why Visit Paxton?
You can get behind anything organic
You love biodynamic wines or want to learn more about biodynamics in general
You’re in search of quality red wines in McLaren Vale
You want to savor wine and cheese with a stellar view
Any wine lover is familiar with the philosophy that truly great wines are made in the vineyard. Personally, I think this couldn’t be more true and the Paxton family seems to agree. Paxton is a family owned winery established in 1979. In 2000, the family released the first wine under the Paxton label – a 1998 Shiraz. However, the Paxtons were involved in the wine industry for three decades prior to their first release. Founder and owner, David Paxton, is one of Australia’s most revered viticulturists. He’s been managing vineyards and growing exceptional fruit for over 30 years!
Paxton’s Biodynamic Vineyards
The Paxton vineyards are spread out over a variety of sites and soil types, which are managed meticulously from planting to harvest. David has always managed the vineyards biodynamically without the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. Rather he focuses on promoting healthy soils via natural compost preparation.
In 2011, they made it official and Paxton became a fully certified organic and biodynamic wine producer. The Paxton farming practices intend to create balanced and diverse soil biology in order to make nutrients readily available to the vines. The composts are naturally broken down in the soil to form humus which in turn provides improved soil structure while retaining water and nutrients more efficiently. The main component of biodynamic compost is cow manure and the Paxtons keep their own herd of cattle for this purpose.
In biodynamic farming, the farm is seen as a whole organism rather than separate entities. The Paxton vineyards are maintained in a way that allows for a natural ecosystem to thrive. A diverse array of plants are promoted between the vine rows to diversify the soil and provide a habitat for different nutrient profiles. Though vines are self-pollinating and do not require bees to reproduce, Paxton keeps beehives on the property so the bees can pollinate flowers of other plants on the farm. These flowers in turn attract other bugs. The health and diversity of the farm’s ecosystem is enhanced by all of these factors, thus improving the growing environment of the vines.
Paxton employs a variety of vineyard management techniques for the diverse varieties they grow. These include shoot thinning, leaf plucking, and fruit thinning to achieve superior quality fruit. Paxton’s six vineyards are spread across different areas of the McLaren Vale region. One such vineyard is amongst the oldest vineyards in the region still on original rootstock. Having vineyards in different locations really provides for an assortment of fruit profiles to work with resulting in exceptional wines. You can read more about the Paxton vineyards here.
Visit Paxton
Paxton aims to make approachable wines showcasing the natural diversity of the region and the high quality of McLaren Vale fruit from premium vineyard sites. The winery cellar door is just as approachable as the wines. Warm, laidback, and inviting, the cellar door offers the perfect space to savor Paxton wines and soak up incredible views of the region. I’ve found biodynamic wineries tend to just have a different vibe when you walk onto the property. The vines seem happier, the views are more beautiful, and the estate feels more in tune with nature. I definitely felt that upon arrival at Paxton.
To taste your choice of wines at the cellar door only costs $5 (in 2019). The tasting fee is redeemable with the purchase of any wine. You can buy cheeses and charcuterie to make your own platter and sit out on the deck with a glass of wine to enjoy the views.
Serafino – The Legacy of an Italian Immigrant
Why Visit Serafino?
You love a good rags to riches success story
You’re in search of Italian varietal wines while wine tasting down under
You’re curious to taste some of the most awarded red wines in McLaren Vale
You like to support family businesses
You’re in search of a one-stop-shop in McLaren Vale where you can wine, dine, and stay over night
The Story of Serafino
My favorite aspect of going wine tasting, besides the wine of course, is discovering the story behind the wine. Who started the winery? What inspired them to do so? What is the winemaking philosophy here? Sometimes the stories are impressive and truly inspiring. Sometimes not so much. In the case of Serafino, the former is true.
The hard work commenced. Steve spent years working long hours doing all sorts of labor including knocking almond trees, concreting, and working at local wineries and vineyards. This meant very limited time with his young family, but Steve persisted with his dream in sight. Finally in 1972, his dream became a reality when he established his first vineyards and winery – Gully wines which went on to be named Maglieri Wines in 1982.
Serafino (Steve) Maglieri migrated to Australia from Italy when he was only a teenager. In 1964 he showed up with about $20, a tiny suitcase of clothes, and spoke very little English. But Steve had a dream. Armed with a passion for grape growing and winemaking, a love he discovered with his great grandfather back in Italy, Steve was determined to have his own successful vineyards and winery one day.
Steve’s wines went on to receive many accolades in Australia. He became the largest seller of a red variety in Australia for three consecutive years in a row. In 1979, 1992, and 2007, he was crowned the Bushing King for the best red wine in the McLaren Vale Wine Show. Steve’s wines garnered national attention with the award of best Shiraz at the Great Australian Wine Challenge. Then found international recognition with trophies for the best Shiraz and red wine at the London International Wine Challenge.
In 1999, the Maglieri family bought the 70 acre McLarens on the Lake property with the intention of establishing a new winery and a legacy for future generations. Today, the Serafino legacy encompasses 350 acres of vineyards, a 5,000 ton winery, a restaurant, a hotel with 40 room accommodation, a cellar door, a bottling line facility and warehouse, and wedding and event function space. And to think all of this resulted from the determination and dedication of a teenage Italian immigrant with little to his name besides a dream.
Not only is Steve a strong advocate for Australian wine and the McLaren Vale wine region, he is also revered for his business, philanthropic, and humanitarian efforts. In 1995 he received the National Australia Bank Ethnic Business Award for South Australia and the Northern Territory. He was awarded the “Cavalliere” title in 2005, becoming a Knight in the Order at Merit of the Italian Republic for his life achievements and charity work. Later, this ranking was extended to “Cavaliere Ufficiale” which is Officer of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic. The highest ranking honor and most senior order of the Republic.
Today, the Serafino family legacy continues with Steve’s daughter at the helm of the business. Though, of course, Steve is still very actively involved.
Visiting Serafino is a must while in McLaren Vale. For the wines, yes, but also to see the gorgeous estate. The property is expansive, tranquil, and even has a beautiful lake. Visitors can rent bikes to ride the Shiraz trail over to the Willunga Farmers Markets or cruise into the McLaren Vale town center nearby.
Primo Estate – A Taste of Italy in McLaren Vale
Why Visit Primo Estate?
You love to support family businesses
You’re in search of Italian variety wines in McLaren Vale
You’re seeking unique wines both in terms of production and taste
In addition to premium wine, you enjoy artisan food products i.e. olive oil
Primo Estate was one of the first wineries we visited when Marco, and I arrived in McLaren Vale. Mostly because Italian Marco figured out the family who owns the winery is Italian and there were Italian varietal wines on offer. From this fateful first visit Primo Estate remained one of our favorite wineries in the region.
The Story of Primo Estate
Primo Grilli was the man who made this gorgeous estate and these beautiful wines possible. He left Le Marche, Italy in 1953 to start a new life with his family in Australia. Settling in Victoria, a township just north of Adelaide, Primo set to work cultivating produce to sell at local markets. As production grew, the Grilli family decided to plant their own vineyards and establish a winery in 1973.
In 1979, Primo’s son, Joe, graduated quite literally at the top of his class in winemaking at Roseworthy Agricultural College. So Primo decided to hand the keys to the family winery over to Joe and his other son, Peter. Joe was eager to implement all of the cutting edge winemaking techniques he learned during his studies at Roseworthy. Techniques that, while used in Europe, were yet to be introduced to the Australian wine scene. Think double pruning Cabernet Sauvignon to improve fruit quality and using botrytis on varieties like Riesling. Soon trials of the Amarone and Ripasso techniques followed.
Joe’s unique style of using traditional Italian winemaking techniques on varieties found in New World Australia helped quickly garner a positive reputation for the unique Primo Estate wines. In 1985, Joe and his wife Dina took over operations of Primo Estate. The couple also embrace their love for high quality olive oil. They bottled their own extra virgin olive oil with the release of the winery’s JOSEPH label in 1989. Primo Estate’s Cold Pressed and First Run Olive Oils have received as much praise and recognition as the wines over the years.
Eventually, Joe and Dina were able to accomplish another dream, planting their own vineyards in McLaren Vale and Clarendon. In 2006, Primo Estate opened the winery’s new headquarters in McLaren Vale with an absolutely stunning cellar door. The design elements of which reflect both the family’s Italian heritage and the beauty of the Fleuriue Peninsula. They even imported a wood fired oven from Umbria!
Though Primo Estate has been Joe’s life since graduating from Roseworthy, he still makes time for the homeland. He has been working vintages in Italy every year for 25 years. In 1991, Joe even worked in Umbria for two years after Hardy’s, another Australian winery, persuaded him to make wine for one of their newly purchased wineries. Joe still returns to Italy each year to visit local growers. He produces a red wine in Tuscany and a white wine in Veneto with said growers, which he brings back to sell at Primo Estate.