Try January: 6 Greek Rare Varieties for Curious Wine Lovers
Embrace 'Try January' by exploring new wines and regions, starting with Greece’s rich winemaking heritage. Plus a flavorful Greek black-eyed pea salad recipe for health and prosperity.
Happy New Year! I hope 2025 has been treating you well so far. We’ve been enjoying time with family and a slower start to what’s sure to be a jam packed and exciting year ahead. For those participating in Dry January following all of our holiday indulgences, more power to you!
Admittedly, going alcohol-free for thirty one days certainly has worthwhile financial and health benefits. Yet for those like myself who tend to already drink in moderation or aren’t ready to commit to taking a month off the sauce, there is another option. One more suited to anyone interested in branching out of their comfort zone in the new year.
It’s called Try January.
Rather than sticking to the usual, Try January is all about trying new things and kicking off the year with some excitement.
Wine lovers keen to put Try January into action can use the month to try new wines, producers, and wine regions.
And to help you branch out to try new wines you may not otherwise consider, I’m going to feature wines from a less often explored country in the world of wine each week in my Sip with Nik newsletter for the month of January (and perhaps a little beyond).
This week, we’re taking a look at lesser known Greek varieties worth checking out and I’m sharing a super simple blue zone Greek bean salad recipe for health and prosperity. But first, a few words on Greek wine.
Millennia of Greek Winemaking
Since antiquity, wine has been an essential thread in the fabric of Greek culture. While the Greeks weren’t the first to make wine, they were pioneers in creating a rich cultural framework around it. Wine wasn’t just a beverage—it was central to religion, social gatherings, and trade. The ancient Greeks cultivated vines with care, produced wine in abundance, and made it a staple of daily life. Their wines traveled far beyond their borders, carried by maritime traders to Italy, Spain, France, and other parts of the ancient world. Alongside wine, they exported pottery, metals, and textiles, sharing not only their products but also their advanced winemaking techniques.
Greece is home to some of the oldest vineyards on Earth, many with an unbroken lineage of cultivation. On the island of Santorini, for instance, there are ancient own-rooted vineyards that have resisted the devastation of phylloxera and flourished for over 3,500 years. These vineyards are a testament to the unique ecosystems in which Greek vines thrive. Over time, natural selection has fortified these vines, making them inherently resilient to pests and diseases. As a result, many Greek vineyards are naturally suited to organic farming, reducing the need for chemical interventions.
Greek wines are celebrated for their freshness, elegant structure, and complex aromatics. They are famously food-friendly—an attribute perfectly aligned with Greece’s love of communal feasting. Today, Greek winemakers blend millennia of tradition with cutting-edge techniques to produce world-class wines. This commitment to quality continues to bolster Greece’s reputation as a global wine powerhouse.
Moschofilero for an Aromatic White Wine
Moschofilero, a late-ripening pink-skinned grape, thrives in the high-altitude vineyards of Mantinia in Peloponnese. Known for its bright acidity and fresh character, this variety produces unoaked wines that highlight its delicate aromas. Expect vibrant notes of citrus—lemon and pink grapefruit—layered with spicy nuances and floral scents, particularly rose, its hallmark aroma.
Peloponnese's moderate Mediterranean climate, influenced by mountain peaks and surrounding seas, allows Moschofilero to flourish, especially in PDO Mantinia, established in 1971. Here, vineyards at elevations averaging 660m deliver wines with exceptional freshness and aromatic intensity. PDO Mantinia wines must be 100% Moschofilero, ranging from dry still whites to sparkling styles.
Boutari, one of Greece’s most historic wineries, played a pivotal role in showcasing Moschofilero’s potential. Their early single-varietal Moschofilero wines helped elevate the grape’s status in the global wine scene.
Tasting Notes
Delicate pale-yellow hues with aromas of citrus, lychee, and rose. On the palate, expect a medium-bodied wine with refreshing acidity and flavors of citrus and spice.
Pairing Suggestions
Moschofilero shines with Mediterranean dishes like grilled seafood, marinated feta, and olives. It also pairs beautifully with sushi, oysters, and grilled chicken souvlaki.
Malagousia: An Expressive Greek White Wine from Macedonia
Malagousia, an ancient Greek white grape, was nearly lost to history until its revival in the 1970s by Porto Carras Winery in Halkidiki. Its rediscovery is attributed to Professor Vassilis Logothetis, who either found the grape in Nafpaktia or cultivated it from cuttings provided by the Institute of Vines. Regardless of its mysterious origins, Malagousia has become a flagship of Greek winemaking, thanks to pioneers like Vangelis Gerovassiliou.
The Variety
Malagousia is celebrated for its rich, round wines with moderate acidity and a captivating array of aromas, including stone fruit, tropical notes, citrus, herbs, and floral scents. Cooler meso climates bring out its more delicate, aromatic qualities, while oaked styles add depth and aging potential. Both single-varietal and blended wines showcase Malagousia’s versatility and complexity.
In the Vineyard
Originating in west-central Greece, Malagousia thrives in Macedonia, particularly in Halkidiki and Florina. It’s a vigorous, high-yielding grape requiring careful vineyard management to achieve concentration and balance. When grown at high altitudes in poor soils, Malagousia can produce intricate, age-worthy wines.
Alpha Estate and PGI Florina
Alpha Estate, located in the Amyndeon plateau of Macedonia, produces some of the finest Malagousia. Their vineyards, situated 620–710m above sea level, benefit from sandy limestone soils and a cool, temperate climate moderated by nearby lakes and mountains. These conditions yield elegant wines like the Single Vineyard "Turtles" 2018, a stunning example of the grape’s potential.
Tasting Notes
Brilliant pale yellow with aromas of stone fruit, citrus, and floral notes. On the palate, it’s round and balanced, with a harmonious finish.
Pairing Suggestions
Pair Malagousia with Mediterranean flavors like grilled fish, shrimp saganaki, or lemon-herb chicken. Its versatility also complements sushi, spicy dishes, and creamy cheeses.
Savatiano: Greece’s White Wine Comeback Star
Greek wines are a treasure trove of unique flavors and incredible value, and Savatiano is no exception. Once overshadowed as the main grape in Retsina, this versatile white variety has seen a resurgence, proving its potential as a standalone star.
The Comeback of Savatiano
Historically used in Retsina—a white wine infused with pine resin—Savatiano earned a less-than-stellar reputation. However, improved vineyard practices, clonal selection, and modern winemaking techniques have elevated its quality. Older, dry-farmed vines and careful harvest timing now produce wines with concentration, freshness, and complexity.
Where It Grows
Savatiano is native to Attica in central Greece, where it thrives in hot, arid conditions. Key regions for quality Savatiano include Keratea (mineral-driven wines), Mesogaia (riper styles), and Stamata (cooler, high-altitude vineyards).
Styles of Savatiano
From fresh and fruity to rich, oak-aged examples, Savatiano offers diverse expressions. Classic styles highlight stone and tropical fruits, while others emphasize herbal or mineral notes. Innovative styles like sparkling, skin-contact, and the sweet Vrastos wine add even more variety.
Pioneering Producer – Domaine Papagiannakos
A champion of Savatiano, Domaine Papagiannakos has been crafting wines in Attica since 1919. Their Old Vines Savatiano exemplifies the grape’s potential, with vibrant citrus, savory mineral notes, and a balanced, refreshing palate.
Pairing Ideas
Savatiano’s versatility shines with Mediterranean dishes like Greek salad, dolmades, grilled chicken, or seafood like calamari and shrimp saganaki. Its fresh acidity also pairs beautifully with creamy pasta salads and mild cheeses.
Greek wines like Savatiano showcase the country’s rich viticultural heritage—perfect for adventurous wine lovers seeking something new!
Limnio: Ancient Elegance Reimagined
Limnio, one of Greece’s oldest grape varieties, was first mentioned by Homer over 2,000 years ago. Originating on the island of Lemnos, where locals call it Kalambaki, Limnio now thrives primarily in northern Greece, particularly in Halkidiki and Thrace. Known for its bright, balanced profile, this ancient variety continues to inspire winemakers and wine enthusiasts alike.
The Variety
Limnio produces medium-bodied red wines with moderate color, elegant aromas, and a velvety texture. Expect red and black berry notes, Mediterranean herbs, and moderate acidity with silky tannins. While often blended with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, single-varietal Limnio wines offer a refreshing, lighter alternative to heavier reds, making them ideal for year-round enjoyment.
Top Regions
PDO Slopes of Meliton (Halkidiki): Situated on Mount Meliton's western slopes, this PDO specializes in blends featuring Limnio. The area’s dry, hot climate is tempered by sea breezes and pine forests, while limestone-rich soils lend finesse to the wines.
Thrace (Maronia and Avdira): Known as the mythical birthplace of Dionysus, Thrace features a humid climate, high summer rainfall, and cooler temperatures in vineyards near the Rodopi Mountains and Aegean Sea. Limnio grown here often exhibits higher acidity and deeper color intensity.
The Winery: Vourvoukeli Estate
Founded in 1999 in Avdira, Thrace, by Nikos and Flora Vourvoukeli, this family-run winery focuses on reviving the region's winemaking traditions. Their Limnio wines, such as the 2016 vintage, are celebrated for their delicate fruit, herbal notes, and approachable style.
Tasting Notes
Medium ruby color with aromas of strawberry, blueberry, and blackberry, accented by Mediterranean herbs and cedar. On the palate, it’s smooth and easy-drinking with flavors of cassis and a touch of spice.
Pairing Suggestions
Limnio pairs beautifully with both fish and meat dishes. Try it with roasted branzino stuffed with dill and lemon, lamb with artichokes in tomato sauce, or Greek moussaka. Its versatility also shines with eggplant curry, lasagna, or Mediterranean-inspired fare.
Liatiko: A Greek Red Wine On the Rise
Liatiko, a dark-skinned Greek variety, is on the rise, gaining recognition for its versatility and charm. Often described as “a hug” by Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis, Liatiko embodies warmth, approachability, and a distinctly Greek character.
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