Primitivo Reimagined: Uncovering the Distinct Styles of Gioia del Colle and Manduria
Plus, uncover some of my top winery discoveries from Radici del Sud.
If you had a chance to read last week’s Sip with Nik newsletter, then you know I recently spent an epic week with Radici del Sud exploring Puglia and discovering the diverse wines of Southern Italy. Throughout the trip, there was one variety prevalent at each and every winery visit and tasting experience – Primitivo. We tasted a TON of Primitivo and just like any other variety cultivated within any other wine region, there were varied expressions and styles available. As one might expect, some were better than others, though the overall quality was high and the quality to price ratio couldn’t be better.
Radici del Sud did a fantastic job of setting up winery visits over two days which allowed us to experience the different expressions of Primitivo from Gioia del Colle DOC vs. Manduria DOC. One of my most delightful insights garnered from the trip was how some of these wineries are able to produce incredibly fresh, vivid, and lively expressions of Primitivo in Puglia where summer temperatures during the growing season regularly exceed 35°C (95°F) with little rainfall. It was hot as hell while we were there and we weren’t even in the peak of summer yet. Terroir and choice vineyard management enable these wineries to maintain acidity and finesse in their wines. So, let’s look at the differences between these two DOCs, as well as some of my standout producers from the trip. But first…
What is Primitivo?
In case you’re not familiar, Primitivo is a red grape variety that’s also known as Zinfandel in the United States. In Puglia, it’s the third most planted grape variety, which arrived in Puglia by way of Croatia across the Adriatic Sea. Originally known as Crljenak Kaštelanski or Tribidrag in Croatia since the 1700s, once it landed in its new home, an Italian monk renamed the variety Primitivo because he noticed it ripened earlier than the other grapes in his vineyard. In Latin, Primitivo translates to something like “early ripening.”
Interestingly, a study from UC Davis in the 1990s concluded that Italian Primitivo is genetically identical to the California Zinfandel grape. Though if you’ve tasted them both, they can have quite different expressions due to varied terroirs.
Generally, Primitivo is known for being full bodied, high in alcohol and fruit-driven with concentrated flavors of blackberry, cherry, strawberry, and perhaps some spice or tobacco notes. It has medium to medium+ acidity with medium to high tannins and can also be a bit earthy or rustic.
Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC – What Makes It Great?
As you can see in the map above from Italian Wine Central, the Gioia del Colle DOC is situated in the center of the heel of Italy’s boot. The DOC was established in 1987 and encompasses 123 hectares/304 acres of vineyard area. If you see Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC on the label, know that wine must be made with 100% Primitivo. On the other hand, Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso is typically a blend that must be at least 50-60% Primitivo with the remaining portion made up of Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Negroamaro, and/or Sangiovese. There is also a Riserva designation for Primitivo which requires a 2 year minimum aging period before release. You can read more specifics about the Gioia del Colle DOC regulation here.
Notably, the vineyard with the very first plantings of Primitivo from Croatia is located in Gioia del Colle.
While visiting wineries in Gioia del Colle DOC and during the masterclass on the region, we learned there are a few factors influencing the DOCs unique expression of Primitivo.
Elevation: Vineyards in Gioia del Colle grow at 300-400 meters above sea level and have some of the highest elevations in relatively flat terrain of Puglia.
Soils: Limestone soils with some clay are characteristic of Gioia del Colle and are crucial in developing the characteristic freshness of these Primitivo wines.
Climate: At the height of the growing season, temperatures often surpass 40°C (104°F) yet sea breezes from the east and west help to moderate temperatures. The region also benefits from diurnal temperature shifts thanks to its higher elevations. Despite low average rainfall, some producers are able to dry farm their vines or use minimal drip irrigation only in emergency situations thanks to limestone’s good drainage combined with the water retention ability of clay. Roots dig deep through the limestone to find water and create sturdy vines.
These factors culminate in an expression of Primitivo that is fresh, elegant, and lively. While most have high alcohol because of the region’s high temperatures, they’re balanced by concentrated flavors, medium to high tannins, and a beautiful integration of fruit flavors. However, I was particularly struck by the bright acidity of these wines. They’re big and bold, but not too heavy or overpowering thanks to that acidity, which is made possible by the diurnal temperature shifts and limestone soils.
Two Must-Try Wineries in Gioia del Colle DOC
We were fortunate to have tasted countless Gioia del Colle Primitivo wines throughout the week, but these were my two personal favorites.
Fatalone
Azienda Agricola Fatalone is a small, family-owned, organic winery in the heart of Gioia del Colle DOC led by 5th generation, self-taught winemaker Pasquale Petrera. The winery was founded in the late 19th century by Nicola Petrera who decided to settle on the Spinomarino hill known for its well-aired and sunny position, which also happens to be one of the best areas in Gioia del Colle for cultivating Primitivo.
The winery’s name comes from the nickname for the second generation Filippo Petrera, who apparently was quite the local casanova. Fatalone translates to “lady killer” or “one known to be an incredible seducer of women.” During our visit, Pasquale informed us that the original lady killer lived to be 98 and credited his longevity to a daily breakfast of a half liter of fresh milk and a half liter of Primitivo wine – YUM!
Since inception, the vineyards have always been farmed organically and a respect for nature has been ingrained in the family lifestyle across all 5 generations. Fatalone is Certified Organic by the Institute for Ecology and Ethics Certification (I.C.E.A), also in accordance with the standards of the American National Organic Program (N.O.P.). The winery is also 100% sustainable thanks to solar energy that powers the entire facility. Fatalone was the first winery to bottle a Primitivo wine under the Gioia del Colle DOC and also became the founding member of the Consortium for the Protection of the Wines of D.O.C Gioia del Colle in 2000.
As Pasquale led us through his family’s vineyards and winery, we learned that in order to plant vines here, they had to use heavy machinery to break the solid limestone rock so that vines could effectively set roots to grow. Fatalone has 12 hectares of Primitivo vines that are trained in an open albarello method (open bush-trained/open goblet) which has a few benefits:
Helps to retain acidity and aromatic complexity thanks to the shade provided by the canopy.
Roots tend to dig deeper to improve drought tolerance.
Increased airflow helps reduce fungal pressures.
They also cultivate 1 hectare of Greco via a pergola vine training system, which will likely be transitioned to a similar system as the Primitivo because the pergola requires too much water.
For me, Fatalone was easily the standout producer of the trip. It’s getting to be increasingly difficult to encounter true vignerons that do everything at their winery from vineyard to bottling and it’s so refreshing when you encounter someone like Pasquale who does it all, backed by the knowledge passed down from 4 generations prior no less. Fatalone wines are so alive they practically leap from the glass with a finesse and elegance you might not expect from the hot, sun-soaked terrain of Southern Italy.
Oh, and in an effort to enhance the micro-oxygenation of their wines, Fatalone also plays music for their Riserva wines aging in their underground cellar that’s carved out of the limestone terrain. You can read about it here, and if you’d like to learn more about this winery from Pasquale himself, check out this Youtube video with his American importer Bon Vivant.
Fatalone Tasting Notes
2024 Spinomarino Greco: Mineral-driven, opens with delicate aromas of white flowers, toasted almonds, and a subtle smokey nuance. On the palate, a vibrant tension between bright acidity and a creamy texture, thanks to some battonage. Notes of almond and hazelnut carry through to a pleasantly bitter finish, adding depth to this elegant wine.
2024 Teres Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC: A unique red that could be considered a rosé made with the racemi, or second harvest of Primitivo grapes. The second harvest are smaller clusters that grow from lateral shoots on the vines after the first flowering that typically ripen 2-3 weeks after the main harvest. In the case of Primitivo, the racemi helps pace the development and ripening of the main clusters. Pasquale explains it really well in the video linked above if you’re curious to learn more.
Made with the free run juice from pressing after 50-days maceration on the skins. Commands attention with its vibrant acidity and layered texture, revealing lifted notes of wild strawberry, Mediterranean macchia, and a distinct mineral streak that speaks to its terroir.
2024 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC tank sample: Powerful yet refined with dark fruit notes of blackberry, mulberry, and black cherry, plus savory hints of balsamic (in the Italian sense like spiced wood), lifted by freshness. Crunchy tannins and bright malic acidity provide structure and energy, while peony, rose petal, and spice add elegance. Will certainly be a stunner after some refinement in bottle.
2022 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva: Fresh yet robust, this wine bursts with black cherry, sour cherry, and earthy notes of clay and macchia. Incredible acidity drives the palate, with subtle balsamic undertones adding depth beneath the vibrant fruit. Focused, pure, and beautifully concentrated.
2015 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva: Aged to perfection, this wine shows sour cherry, balsamic depth, and a core of fresh acidity. The firm, refined tannins provide serious structure, while notes of clove and spice add complexity to the long, layered finish. Alive and kicking 10 years later.
2001 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva: Beautifully evolved with layers of smoke, tar, earthy mushrooms, and sour cherry, elevated by notes of coffee and toasted nuts. Incredible acidity still with balsamic tones and faint florals hinting at its enduring elegance.
All Fatalone wines undergo spontaneous fermentation on indigenous yeasts. Explore further information on each of the Fatalone wines here.
Pietraventosa
Agricole Pietraventosa is a winery born from a passionate desire to give Gioia del Colle Primitivo the spotlight it deserves in Italy’s wine landscape. Since its founding in 2005, Pietraventosa has stood out for its dedication to low yields, organic farming, and a meticulous approach that balances modern winemaking techniques with respect for traditions. The wines speak clearly of the rugged Murgia terroir—mineral-driven, structured, and expressive.
What makes Pietraventosa especially compelling is the story of its founders, Marianna and Raffaele. Neither originally came from an agricultural background, yet they embraced every challenge of vineyard life with relentless dedication. Raffaele, inspired by his grandfather who was a winemaker in early 20th-century Brindisi, gained technical expertise working for a company that designs winemaking equipment. This experience gave him a rare insight into winemaking processes across the spectrum. He even invented unique stainless steel fermenters found in the Pietraventosa cellar. It was also through this work that he connected with Oronzo Alò, a renowned oenologist who remains a close collaborator.
Marianna, born and raised in Gioia del Colle, shares a deep bond with the land and a determination to elevate the region’s native grape. Together, they planted nearly five hectares of vineyards between 2003 and 2006 and took over a 50-year-old bush-trained vineyard, combining youthful energy with respect for heritage. Their first harvest in 2005 led to the creation of Ossimoro, their inaugural wine.
Today, Marianna and Raffaele personally oversee every aspect of the winery, from the vineyard and cellar to administration, sales, and marketing. Another example of true vignerons, ensuring that every bottle of Pietraventosa reflects their connection to place and commitment to quality. Certified organic and proud members of FIVI (the Italian Federation of Independent Winegrowers), Pietraventosa remains a shining example of how passion, tradition, and innovation can come together to create wines of true character.
During one of the B2B meeting days, Marianna invited me back to the winery for a quick lunch with another buyer and it was a special experience to dine with them at the winery. Their passion can be felt in everything they do and it was especially exciting to taste their traditional method sparkling wine made from Primitivo that was exceptional. So fresh, great complexity and persistence from extended lees aging with bright acidity and fruit flavors. Can’t wait until it’s released!
Pietraventosa Tasting Notes
Throughout the various tasting opportunities, I was able to taste through their full range of wines. But it seems I didn’t manage to capture tasting notes for all of them. Here’s what I have:
2024 Apriti Cielo IGT Murgia: This elegant white blend showcases a savory profile rather than floral, driven by remarkable freshness and vibrant acidity. The 50/50 combination of Malvasia and Minutolo delivers a beautifully balanced wine—crisp, refined, and incredibly age-worthy. Fresh and savory, it’s a standout expression that evolves gracefully over time.
2019 Apriti Cielo IGT Murgia: This beautifully aged Malvasia unfolds with savory depth and distinctive petrol-like aromas that have developed gracefully over time. The fruit has faded, giving way to smoky, rocky minerality and a strikingly structured backbone. With no overt fruit presence, this wine is a captivating expression—complex, savory, and truly intriguing.
2022 Volere Volare Primitivo IGT Puglia: Aged for two years in well-used barrels with multiple fillings, this red shows a gentle, early-drinking charm. Soft on the palate with vibrant fruit, light tannins, and a fresh, lifted character, it offers impressive length and concentration without excess weight. Approachable yet refined.
Riserva Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC: At 15% ABV, this Riserva is powerful yet poised, showing dark fruit depth, firm but balanced tannins, and vibrant acidity. The structure is beautifully composed, with the freshness and grip to support extended aging. A refined and age-worthy expression of Primitivo.
Check out all of Pietraventosa’s wines here.
Discovering the Primitivo di Manduria DOC
On the second day of winery visits, we drove just over an hour south to visit the Primitivo di Manduria DOC. On the map included above, this region is number 26. The Primitivo di Manduria DOC was established in 1974 and stretches along the Gulf of Taranto coast for about 25 miles to the village of Francavilla Fontana in the north. The climate is hot and dry with coastal topography consisting mostly of plains sloping down into the sea. In order to use the designation, wines must be made from a minimum of 85% Primitivo. Rosso wines must have a minimum of 13,5% alcohol and age for at least 5 months. Riserva wines must have a minimum of 14% alcohol and age for 24 months minimum.
Masseria Cuturi
Tucked into the fertile heart of Manduria’s Conca d’Oro, Masseria Cuturi is a historic estate producing fresh, elegant wines that defy expectations for the region. Though located in one of Puglia’s warmest areas, Cuturi’s wines are marked by a surprising vibrancy thanks to the estate’s organic practices, diverse soils (including red earth, sand, clay, and some limestone), and the cooling influence of the surrounding centuries-old Cuturi forest, a protected nature reserve.
The estate spans over 300 hectares, including 40 hectares of vineyards, 80 hectares of olive groves, and 100 hectares of forest. Cuturi was originally established in 1881, when Tommaso Schiavoni Tafuri, a wealthy landowner from Manduria, married Countess Sabini of Altamura, who brought grafted Primitivo cuttings as part of her dowry. They planted the earliest roots of what would become one of the area’s most treasured vineyards. While the Masseria itself dates back even earlier, to the late 1500s, the modern winery was revived in 2008, following vineyard replanting in 2007.
Today, Cuturi is fully certified organic (ICEA) and deeply committed to sustainability, from hand-farming and cover cropping to the use of renewable energy, lightweight bottles, and natural corks made from sugarcane-derived renewable raw materials. They’re also on the path to becoming officially recognized as Biodiversity Friends, underscoring their respect for the natural environment and the social ecosystem around them.
Led by winemaker Angelo, with the support of assistant winemaker Roberto, Masseria Cuturi produces around 80,000 bottles annually. Their wines reflect not only the richness of Manduria’s terroir but also a deep-rooted philosophy of harmony, stewardship, and balance. Yet they still had a lifted freshness, which was pretty mind-blowing to find in such a hot climate. All thanks to careful vineyard management.
Masseria Cuturi Tasting Notes
Monte Diavoli Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2020: Powerful yet strikingly elegant, this Primitivo balances firm tannins and bright acidity with notes of sage, macchia, dark cherry, blackberry, and spice. Despite its 15% ABV, the wine feels fresh and savory, with just enough dark fruit to ground its herbal core. A standout for its finesse and structure. My favorite from the tasting.
Li Cuturi Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2021: Vinified in stainless steel and aged in 500L tonneaux, this Primitivo is tannic and tightly structured, with grippy texture and fresh acidity. Notes of red fruit and subtle spice emerge with more time spent in glass.
Chidro Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2021: A beautiful balance of concrete and tonneaux aging brings out the wine’s perfumed red fruit, soft spice, and vibrant lift. Approachable and expressive, this was a standout for its easy charm and freshness.
Zacinto Negroamaro Salento IGT 2021: From a karstic zone with naturally low pH, this Negroamaro offers crunchy cranberry, herbal macchia, and lively acidity. With high tannin and a cool, lifted profile, it’s impressively fresh. Structurally driven and distinctive.
Femì Negroamaro Rosato IGT 2024: A whole-bunch pressed rosato, picked early (August 9), this shows crunchy red fruit, orange peel, and a touch of wild herbs. Medium in body and acidity, it’s fresh and textured, with just enough savory edge to keep it interesting.
Aglianico Salento IGP 2021: Surprisingly fresh for Aglianico, this vintage has grippy tannins, vibrant acidity, and notes of dark cherry, lingonberry, and macchia. A little closed on the nose, but with great body and potential.
Zacinto Negroamaro Salento IGT 2023: Floral, lifted, and bursting with fruit, this vintage shows fresh acidity, lovely persistence, and a bright, aromatic profile. Elegant and energetic.
And that’s a wrap on this long but hopefully insightful newsletter! Which DOC sounds more your speed? Have you ever tried any of these wines? Let me know in the comments below.
The colour of that glass of Masseria Cuturi (Rosato?) looks irresistible! Always great to see more people championing Puglia - Apollonio Squinzano was my gateway wine into the region
Great overview of the Primitivo di Manduria and Gioia del Colle wines that we tasted