Mandrolisai: My Favorite Sardinian Wine Region + a Go-To Sardinian Eggplant Recipe
Explore the Mandrolisai DOC, the best wineries to check out while there, and an eggplant recipe that makes the perfect wine pairing for Mandrolisai and Cannonau wines.
If you’re interested in discovering off the beaten path wines, then head to Sardinia. This Mediterranean island, which is technically part of Italy (though no Sardinian would ever call himself Italian), has some pretty obscure wines. Luckily, I married a Sardinian man and he’s a winemaker no less. So, I get the inside scoop. The first time I visited the island in 2018, my husband took me on a little wine tour to discover Sardinian wines. I was blown away by the quality for price and how truly unique each of the wines were.
I’ll be doing a deep dive on Sardinian grape varieties and must try wines in a newsletter to come. For now, I’d like to introduce you to a truly obscure Sardinian wine region and home to some of my favorite Sardinian wines: Mandrolisai DOC.
The Mandrolisai DOC
Located in mountainous, sun-soaked central Sardinia, the Mandrolisai DOC is one of the island’s seventeen designations of controlled origin. The appellation encompasses the comunes of Atzara, Desulo, Meana Sardo, Ortueri, Samugheo, Sorgono, and Tonara. This DOC was established in 1981 and covers rosso (red) and rosato (rosé) wines.
Mandrolisai DOC wines are made from three red varieties native to the region: Cannonau, Bovale, and Monica. But what really makes them unique is that these three varieties must be vinified together. They cannot be fermented as single varietal wines and blended together later before bottling.
Mandrolisai must be made from:
Minimum 35% Bovale (also known as Muristellu or Muristeddu)
20-35% Cannonau
20-30% Monica
Maximum 10% other native varieties to the region
Bovale provides richness, depth, structure, and color intensity to Mandrolisai wines, along with dark fruit, spice and floral laden flavors. Cannonau brings its bright acidity and concentrated red fruit and macchia flavors. While Monica rounds out the blend with medium tannins, moderate acidity, and notes of cherries and berries.
The resulting Mandrolisai DOC blend is one of the most well-balanced, intricate wines I’ve tasted in Sardinia. Depending on the vinification method and age of the vineyard, these wines range widely in style. They can be fresh, fruity, and easy drinking or highly ageable, incredibly layered, and complex.
Additional DOC Info
The Mandrolisai DOC covers 50 hectares (124 acres) of vineyards. Traditionally, the three varieties are grown in the same vineyard following similar proportions as the blending regulations. You’ll also find several old vineyards with upwards of 50 years that are still head-trained (bush vines), also known as the “albarello” training system in Italian. Bush vines require more manual labor in the vineyard, but the high quality of the results is unmistakable.
Since the region is quite hilly and mountainous, Mandrolisai vineyards lie at higher elevations, though 750 meters above sea level is the maximum elevation permitted by the DOC. Soils are mainly clay, decomposed granite, and some limestone depending on where you are within the region.
Additional production rules for the discipline include minimum alcohol levels of 11.5% abv for rosato and rosso wines, and 12.5% abv for the Superior designation. Mandrolisai DOC Superiore wines must also be aged for a minimum of 2 years, including 1 year in barrel.
3 Mandrolisai Wineries with Must Try Wines
Although there are several wonderful producers to discover in Mandrolisai, there are 3 wineries to explore in order to understand what the Mandrolisai DOC is all about. For me, these wineries consistently produce the highest quality Mandrolisai wines and provide an array of styles with something for every palate.
If you’re ever visiting central Sardinia and would like to visit Mandrolisai, book a visit at these 3 wineries and be sure to stop for lunch at the agriturismo highlighted below. Otherwise, don’t hesitate to purchase some bottles from these 3 producers if you have the chance. I’m hoping to bring some of these wines to America soon enough!
Additionally, I’ve included one of my favorite Sardinian recipes below – melenzane alla Sassarese. It’s a grilled eggplant preparation typical of the city of Sassari, but it makes a fantastic food pairing for Mandrolisai wines and for Cannonau wines in general. I love savoring Mandrolisai when we’re having a grill out with sausages, pancetta, and other grilled meats. Melanzane alla Sassarese makes the perfect side dish for the occasion.
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