A Couple of Rare Varieties from Moldova Worth Discovering
Explore Fetească Neagră and Rară Neagră, two fruit forward red varieties from Eastern Europe.
Feteasca Neagra – Your Next Go-To Red Wine for Sunny Days
Winemaking in Moldova dates back more than 5,000 years. Yet somehow Moldovan wines have relatively flown under the radar for years. Though these wines are finally getting the attention they deserve, especially Feteasca Neagra.
Sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is the most vineyard dense country in the world. Not to mention that something like a quarter of all Moldovans are winemakers. If this is the case, then how is the world just now discovering the wines of Moldova?
Well, Moldova has had somewhat of a tumultuous history. Moldovan wine almost vanished completely on multiple occasions. First, the wine industry had to withstand Mikhail Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol campaign in the 1980s. Next, came the collapse of the Soviet Union, which Moldova was part of at the time. Actually, one in every two bottles of wine produced across the Soviet empire came from Moldova. Finally, the Russians, Moldova’s largest importer, threw up some sanctions in 2006 and 20013 that made business a little rough. Thankfully, close ties to the west and western Europe inspired an explosion of exports to new markets that allowed the Moldovan wine industry to continue to thrive.
Moldova is Home to the Largest Wine Cellar in the World
Have you heard of Millestii Mici? This wine cellar houses over 2 million bottles in Moldova, making Millestii Mici the largest wine cellar in the world. The cellar sits 270 feet underground and contains around 34 miles of tunnels. Travel by car is needed to get through the cellar. The tunnels were originally excavated for mining purposes and the first bottle of wine was stored in the tunnel in 1968.
A Bit About Feteasca Neagra
Feteasca Neagra is a Moldovan indigenous variety that has been grown in the country for more than 2,000 years. The name translates to “Black Maiden” and while the variety is native to Moldova, Romania claims more plantings of Feteasca Neagra today to the tune of 2,900 hectares. For a long time, many believed that Feteasca Neagra was a color mutation of the white Moldovan variety, Feteasca Alba. However, genetic research disproved this theory and found no direct genetic connections between the two varieties.
This variety saw no plantings in Moldova under the Soviet empire. For this reason, Feteasca Neagra almost went extinct. Thankfully that did not happen, and we are able to still enjoy this lovely red wine today. So, I was curious to see if this variety was ever rated by Wine Enthusiast. Though I am by no means a points person and never choose wines based on point ratings. I have never tried this variety before, but for some reason the name ‘Feteasca Neagra’ was familiar to me. I was pleasantly surprised to find that upwards of forty different Feteasca Neagra wines from Moldova and Romania scored 80 points or higher. In fact, many of them were in the 90-point range. Way to represent the indigenous varieties, Moldova and Romania!
Feteasca Neagra in the Vineyard
Feteasca Neagra is a difficult grape to grow because the vine is extremely vigorous. High vigor vines require more manual work and much more attention in the vineyard. The berries of this variety are also very thin skinned. This makes Feteasca Neagra extremely susceptible to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew.
Feteasca Neagra is also prone to accumulating high sugar levels prior to reaching phenolic ripeness. Grapes with higher sugar levels can cause difficulties in making quality wine. Why? Because high sugar results in high alcohol wines. This becomes a challenge when there are not enough additional components to balance out the high alcohol, such as tannin, acidity, and fruit aromas and flavors.
Feteasca Neagra in the Glass
Feteasca Neagra often has moderate acidity and low to moderate tannin. When grown in cooler climates, the variety can offer higher acidity. Many winemakers will throw oak on the wine to add tannin in an effort to balance out the high alcohol. In the hands of a skilled winemaker, this can work beautifully. However, in the hands of an unskilled winemaker, this results in over-oaked wines.
Traditionally, wines made from Feteasca Neagra were often sweet or semi-sweet because of those naturally higher sugars. Today, this variety typically produces dry red wines. At the very basic level, sweet or semi-sweet wines may still be found.
Feteasca Neagra shows beautiful aromas of red fruits, black fruits, ripe black plum and spicy, toasted nuances from oak aging.
Cricova, Feteasca Neagra, Orasul Subteran 2017
Founded in 1952, Cricova is considered the “pearl of Moldovan winemaking.” Originally, Cricova was an underground wine storage facility. Petra Ungureanu and Nicolae Sobolev had the bright idea to use these old, underground stone mining tunnels to store wine. Business was booming and before long, Cricova was producing wine. Today, they offer a whole range of wines, including international varieties, indigenous varieties, traditional method sparkling wines, ice wine, and even brandy. Head to their website and check out what they have to offer!
Tasting Notes
Low intensity color, beautiful ruby red with amber hues
Medium pronounced aromas of sweet spices, black plum, black cherry, juicy raspberry, and dried herbs
A very enticing bouquet that I just want to keep smelling
Medium-minus body, medium-minus acidity, delicate fine-grained tannins
A little flabby, but the notes of plum, raspberry, and sweet spices linger on the palate
A long, persistent finish
Pairing Suggestions
I could see this specific bottle of Feteasca Neagra going really well with pork bao buns or peking duck pancakes. Would easily be tasty along any roasted or grilled meats. Lamb gyros or souvlaki with tzatziki perhaps. Even carne asada street tacos would be yummy with this wine. This is why Feteasca Neagra is perfect for summer. This wine can go with just about anything on the summer grill.
Try Rara Neagra from Moldova for a Wine Experience You Won’t Soon Forget
Wine is synonymous with livelihood in Moldova. In fact, the wine industry employs one in every five Moldovans. The country’s history of winemaking dates back to 3,000 B.C. Moldovan viticulture began even earlier with the first vines recorded in 7,000 B.C. Remarkably, Moldovan wines are only just starting to break onto the international wine scene.
According to the National Office for Vine and Wine, Moldova’s vineyard density is higher than any other country in the world. In the past ten years, around 330 million Euros were invested in new winemaking technology, equipment, and vineyard plantings. Furthermore, the Moldovan wine industry accounts for 7.2% of the country’s total exports, distributing over sixty-seven million bottles worldwide. Do these stats have you curious to taste Moldovan wine yet?
Prior to these investments and impressive export numbers, the Soviet era stunted the Moldovan wine industry. The Soviets planted international varieties and ramped up production of regimented wines. As a result, many native Moldovan varieties were on the brink of extinction. With the fall of the Soviet Union, Moldovan producers were able to refocus on producing quality over quantity. Thankfully, indigenous Moldovan varieties are thriving once again. We are even seeing wines from these native varieties in America. However, international plantings still dominate Moldovan vineyards.
For more on the history of Moldovan wine, please visit the Wine of Moldova website. The National Office for Vine and Wine has done a fabulous job of compiling information on Moldovan wine history, famous legends, wine regions, varieties, and more all in one convenient place.
Moldovan Wine Country
Located in southeastern Europe, Moldova rests along similar latitudinal lines as other famous European wine regions. Therefore, this suggests that the country offers preferable terroir for viticulture. Moldova has a moderately continental climate influenced by the Black Sea. The terrain is mostly plains and plateaus with some low hill country. There are many streams throughout Moldova and the country has two large rivers. The Prut runs along the country’s western border and the Dniester runs within the eastern half of Moldova. Most white varieties grow centrally while the red varieties thrive in southern Moldova.
Moldova has three historical wine regions, which together boast 112,000 hectares of vineyards.
Codru
Located in central Moldova, Codru produced most of the country’s white wines. Feteasca Alba, Muscat, Chardonnay, Traminer, and other varieties planted here produce sparkling and still wines. This region houses the massive wine cellars of Cricova and Milestii Mici (which I touched on in the Feteasca Neagra post), along with many other wineries.
Stefan Voda
Stefan Voda is Moldova’s southeastern wine region, whose vineyards rest at lower elevations on dominantly brown chernozem and podzol soils near the Dniester terraces. The Black Sea significantly influences this region, resulting in a more moderate continental climate. Stefan Voda is home to Moldova's famous Purcari winery. The region has an ample 10,000 hectares under vine.
Valul lui Traian
Valul lui Traian (or Trajan’s Wall) is in southwestern Moldova and boasts an expansive 43,203 hectares of vineyards. Red wine accounts for 60% of the region’s total production. The climate here is warmer, even with the Black Sea influence, and soils of the region are more aerated.
The Variety: Rara Neagra
Rara Neagra is a variety native to Moldova. The name roughly translates to ‘rare black’ or often ‘loose black.’ The latter refers to the loosely packed clusters that are characteristic of this grape. The variety is known for its depth of color, rich acidity, and pronounced fruity character. In the late 18th century, Rara Neagra helped elevate Purcari Winery to fame. This variety is a main blending component in Negru de Purcari, the winery’s most celebrated and world-renowned wine.
Known in neighboring Romania as Babeasca Neagra and many other names in Moldova, Rara Neagra has wholly adapted to sunny southern Moldova. Additionally, this is one of the most widely cultivated grape varieties in Romania today. Rara Neagra originally grew in the territory that lies between present-day eastern Romania and southern Moldova. This variety was even widespread along the Moldovan-Ukrainian border. The Ukrainians call this variety Sereksyia.
Surprisingly, Rare Neagra is also cultivated in America! The variety was brought to New York’s Finger Lakes region by Dr. Frank. He was an early advocate of planting eastern European vitis vinifera varieties in the Finger Lakes region because he knew that they could withstand the characteristically cold temperatures there. Rara Neagra has been around for centuries, and as such has undergone many mutations over the years. There is a mutation with bigger berries called Copceac. Then, a variation with split clusters called Coada Rândunicii (meaning Swallowtail) and a third mutation called Coada Vulpii (Foxtail) elongated, cylindrical bunches. A pink mutation of this grape also exists called Babeasca gris or Sereksyia Rose
Rara Neagra in the Vineyard
Rara Neagra is a very late-budding and late-ripening variety. Since the variety experiences a later bud break, the vines are less susceptible to spring frosts and much more winter hardy. Actually, Rara Neagra is able to withstand exceptionally cold eastern European winter temperatures of -18°C. This is a very vigorous vine that needs to be tirelessly maintained with winter and green pruning in order to yield quality fruit. Unfortunately, the loose clusters are prone to powdery and downy mildew and noble rot. So, Rara Neagra requires careful attention in the vineyard throughout the growing season in order to have a successful vintage in the fall. Grapes are typically mature and ready to harvest by the end of September or early October.
Cricova Winery
Cricova is a massive Moldovan winery located in the central wine region of Codru. Originally founded as an underground wine storage facility in 1952, Cricova produces an awe-inspiring range of wine styles today. Their central location is known for sunny days, a mild, favorable climate, and black chernozem soil. This is an extremely fertile type of soil with a high percentage of phosphorus, ammonia, phosphoric acids, and humus. Chernozem also has a high capacity for moisture retention.
Tasting Notes: Cricova, Rara Neagra, Orasul Subteran, 2017
A gorgeous ruby red, almost pomegranate color with medium-minus intensity
I let the wine sit in the glass to breathe a bit before tasting and was astounded by the pronounced aromas exploding from the glass, wafting up to my nose from the table.
Pronounced aromas of raspberry, strawberry, juicy red berries, and white pepper
This wine has a garrigue-like quality of dried herbs, rosemary, and just a hint of red florals.
On the palate, this wine was medium-minus body with medium-plus acidity.
Velvety tannins present, but well integrated with the wine
Juicy red fruit flavors linger on the palate
If you enjoy drinking Grenache, Cinsault, or fruit forward California Zinfandel, then you will love Rare Neagra.
Pairing Suggestions
The juicy red fruit flavors of this wine make it a great option to pair with spiced dishes and umami flavors. Creole jambalaya. Chorizo and chicken paella. Chicken tikka masala, one of my favorite Indian dishes. Soy and ginger marinated grilled skirt steak. Balsamic and soy roasted garlic mushrooms. Umami flavors in foods (like mushrooms) tend to emphasize the bitterness of tannins. So, umami dishes should be paired with wines that are more fruit forward. Just some food (and wine) for thought.
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