5 Native Grapes That Have Me Betting on Abruzzo
Abruzzo is having a moment and it’s time to get your hands on these wines!
Throughout our week in Abruzzo with the Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo, at all of the wineries and restaurants we visited, I am happy to report that we only encountered and savored wines made with grapes indigenous to the region.
Well, there was one exception: a Riesling tasted at Jasci e Marchesani, which quite honestly surprised me in the best way. I was not expecting a Riesling grown in Abruzzo to maintain such exquisite acidity, freshness, and aromatic complexity, but that it did.
So, besides the Riesling, we only drank native Abruzzo grapes! You likely know by now that I am a huge fan of discovering indigenous varieties and there was a proverbial treasure trove of varieties awaiting us in Abruzzo. It’s interesting because at several wineries we visited, we heard a familiar narrative about a wine region plagued by self-doubt. A region that didn’t quite prosper as much as other Italian regions post-war. One of our hosts even went as far as to say, “Abruzzo is the Tuscany that never believed in itself.”
Yet here are all of these fantastic producers honoring their region by producing high-quality wines made from native grapes. What’s more authentic than that? Better yet, these wines are uniquely differentiated to stand out in the international market. Abruzzese producers, and regional representation like the Consorzio di Vini d’Abruzzo, are now proudly embracing and representing their region at a time when consumers are looking for something different, organic, and with an original story to boot.
Could Abruzzo be Italy’s next big buzzed-about wine region?
With native varieties like these, I’d put my money on it.
Trebbiano Abruzzese
Throughout our time in Abruzzo, the Trebbiano wines surprised me the most. Perhaps I had a preconceived notion of a lack of complexity based on cheaper, lower-quality Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines I’d tasted in the U.S. But boy oh boy was I wrong!
I was really impressed with the quality and range of styles of Trebbiano wines we tasted. For a variety that is so widely grown, it was incredible to experience varied expressions of this grape, from savory and age-worthy to vibrant, floral, and fruity. This is one of the most historic varieties of Abruzzo with written documentation dating back to the 16th century of the Trebulanum grapes in the Fucino and Peligna areas captured in Andrea Bacci’s De Naturali Vinorum Historia.
Typical characteristics: Trebbiano has a pale straw yellow color in the glass with golden or green reflections. It’s known for delicate fruity and floral aromas, occasionally with more herbal or savory qualities. On the palate, it’s dry, medium bodied, super fresh, and well-balanced. Trebbiano wines have great acidity and range from delicate to complex. The latter often relies on extended lees contact or barrel aging.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC:
There are 19,200,000 liters of Trebbiano produced annually.
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC is made from Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and/or Trebbiano Toscano varieties with the help of other white grapes suitable for cultivation in the Abruzzo region, either alone or blended up to a maximum of 15%.
Covers mainly the middle and coastal bands of the region.
Vineyard altitude cannot exceed 500 meters above sea level, or up to 600 meters above sea level for vineyards with southern exposure.
Pecorino
Another Abruzzo knockout, Pecorino was nearly extinct in the 20th century until producers started reviving plantings in the 1990s, and thank God they did because this variety makes stunning wines.
There are several theories as to the origin story of the grape’s name, most of which have to do with transumanza or transhumance, the seasonal migration of sheep from higher elevations in summer to lower elevations in winter. It was a huge part of Abruzzo’s pastoral culture and economy for centuries. The sheep would pass through the vineyards during their September migration, and would eat these grapes because it’s an early-ripening variety and they were sweeter than other grapes at that time. To compensate the vineyard owners, the shepherds would give them pecorino cheese.
Pecorino is a low-yielding grape variety with good resistance to fungal disease. It thrives at high altitudes and produces wines with good acidity, structure, and alcohol, making them great for aging.
Typical characteristics: Pale straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Tends toward fruity and floral aromas with notes of bright citrus or tropical fruits. On the palate, Pecorino is dry, more mineral-driven and earthy with some floral notes, medium body, bright acidity, and great persistence.
Passerina
Passerina is another delightful Abruzzese variety that deserves some real estate in your wine cellar. The variety also grows in the neighboring Marche region to the north of Abruzzo and some believe it to be part of the Trebbiani family. However, in the glass, Passerina has a pretty distinct expression from Trebbiano Abruzzese. The variety is named for passeri or sparrows who are notorious for eating its small berries once ripe. It’s quite a vigorous variety whose long growing season culminates in grapes with high sugar concentration and strong acidity, which is bound to translate into beautiful wines.
Typical characteristics: Passerina is a pale yellow color in the glass with green reflections. Its bouquet of tropical fruits, citrus, honey, and delicate herbs leaps from the glass. Expect prominent, mouthwatering acidity on the palate with salinity and a slightly bitter finish.
I tasted both still and sparkling styles of Passerina in Abruzzo and both blew me away. This variety has a very elegant and lively expression. It’s a fun wine to drink and sure to be a crowd pleaser.
Coccociola
After years of playing a supporting role by contributing acidity to Trebbiano in white blends, Coccociola is finally getting its time to shine in single varietal wines. This is a grape variety mainly found in the Chieti province within Abruzzo, but it also grows in a few areas in Teramo. There are only 900 hectares of this relatively productive variety cultivated throughout the region and I believe we only tasted one bottle during our Abruzzo masterclass while there. So I will definitely be seeking out more Coccociola.
The variety was widely cultivated using the traditional Abruzzese pergola training system, which I was told became a popular training system to accommodate transhumance.
Typical characteristics: Coccociola wines have a straw-yellow color with green reflections. Expect fresh floral and citrus aromas with hints of herbaceousness. These wines are characterized by citrus flavors with vibrant acidity and a savory finish.
Montepulciano
Montepulciano reigns supreme in Abruzzo. After all, it’s the quintessential wine of the region and we tasted A TON of it while there, which really opened my eyes to the array of expressions available and turned me into a big fan of the grape.
This year marks the 57th anniversary of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC. Historic documents indicate that it has been producing wines of exceptional quality in the region since the mid-1700s. Today, there are over 13,700 hectares of Montepulciano cultivated in Abruzzo. According to the Consorzio, it’s the second most widely grown grape in Italy! Likely because Montepulciano is a late-ripening variety that’s highly adaptable to diverse soil types. We were exploring the region at the beginning of October, and many producers were just beginning to harvest their Montepulciano grapes.
Typical characteristics: Montepulciano is capable of producing an array of wine styles from easy drinking to complex and age-worthy. Its wines usually have a dark ruby color with aromas of black and red fruits, minerals, spice, and sometimes that meaty quality. On the palate, Montepulciano can be full-bodied and robust or more fresh and fruity, but either way expect good flavor concentration, medium-to-high tannin, and balanced acidity.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC:
Accounts for 58% of all vineyard plantings in Abruzzo
Province of Chieti has the majority of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo plantings
Grapes can be grown at an altitude of up to 500 meters above sea level
12% minimum abv. for non sub-zone, approximately 3 months minimum aging
Riserva wines must be aged for 2 years minimum, including 9 months minimum oak aging, 12.5% minimum abv
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC:
Some of my favorite wines of the trip were Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. This isn’t a variety, but a geographic indication for the region’s traditional darker rosato wines made from Montepulciano grapes. The vinification process involves a few hours of skin contact during fermentation, resulting in a higher concentration of anthocyanins and a darker color of the finished wine.
Since it’s not a lightly colored pink rosé like the Provencal style , Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo has had a rough time of breaking into certain markets, which is such a shame because it’s an absolutely delicious rosato. Several of my favorite wines from the trip were Cerasuolo, so I’ve become a huge advocate and will certainly be featuring Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo in the wine club at some point.
Typical characteristics: Cerasuolo shows a cherry red color with aromas of crunchy red fruits, sometimes macchia or savory herbs, bright acidity, and a dry, savory finish.
I found it to be an exceptional food pairing wine. That structure and bitter edge make it a natural with tomato-based dishes, which dominate Italian cuisine.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC wines must have 11.5% minimum abv and 2-3 months aging before release. The DOC was established in 2010 and it’s one of Italy’s top appellations for rosato.
Maiolica
Ok, this one is just to tickle your palate (and mine, too). I did not have the opportunity to taste Maiolica, but it was recommended to me by 2-3 of our hosts at wineries we visited. They see it as a native grape with massive potential and one that they’re most excited about currently. Maiolico must be pretty rare because I don’t even see a lot of general information about it in an online search, but these were the producers recommended to me in case you want to track it down:
Mazzarossa - Found their website, but I don’t see this wine.
About the Abruzzo DOC
The Abruzzo DOC was established to spotlight the region’s native varieties—Pecorino, Passerina, Cococciola, etc.—and ensure quality standards for wines made from these grapes. It’s essentially a way to guarantee origin and typicality, giving consumers confidence that what they’re drinking is authentically Abruzzese. Since the 2010 vintage, the DOC has helped bring these native white wines (and others) to market with serious quality behind them.
Most of the Abruzzo DOC requirements are the same for each variety depending on its designation. Generally:
Wines must be made with a minimum of 85% of the names variety + up to 15% maximum other white grapes suitable for cultivation in Abruzzo
11.5% minimum abv for still or charmat sparkling
2-3 months minimum aging
For Superiore, 90% minimum named variety, 12% minimum abv, 4-5 months minimum aging
For Riserva, 12.5% minimum abv, 15 months minimum aging
Learn more about the Abruzzo DOC here. This geographic indication came decades after the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC was established in 1968 and the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC in 1972.
Additionally, there are four main subzones of the Abruzzo DOC:
Colline Teramane
Colline Pescaresi
Since the 2006 harvest of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, two new sub-denominations have been designated for the province of Pescara: “Terre dei Vestini” and “Casauria or Terre di Casauria”.
Terre di Chieti
Since the 2010 harvest, the sub-area “Teate” has also been designated for the province of Chieti.
Terre Aquilane or Terre de L’Aquila
Since the 2010 harvest, the sub-areas “Terre dei Peligni” and “Alto Tirino” have been designated for the province of L’Aquila.
Superiore and Riserva designations may only be used in these four main provincial subzones.
Additional designations in Abruzzo:
Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG
Ortona DOC
Villamagna DOC
I hope you’re inspired to explore more wines from Abruzzo. If you have any favorite producers, let us know in the comments below!
Sip with Nik Abruzzo Wine Recommendations
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo:
Castorani Amorino Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Colline Pescaresi DOC Superiore: Great body. Salinity. Flint. Nice persistence. Nuttiness on the nose. This would age really well.
Valle Reale Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC: White pepper, green apple, nutty, jasmine, whoa. Chewy acidity. Oily palate. Really lovely Trebbiano. Killer persistence. Imported by WineBow if you’re in the U.S. and want to track it down.
Inalto Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore: Bay leaf, aromatic herbs, peach, candied citrus, a kiss of smokiness. Another stunner.
Le Vigne di Faraone Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC: Fresh and savory with notes of aromatic herbs and earthy undertones.
Of these Trebbiano wines, I think the last two were my favorites because they were both so complex.
Pecorino:
Torre Zambra Poggio Salaia Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOC: Whoa! Peach, white nectarine, salinity, orange peel, tangerine, minerality. Fuller bodied. Nice concentration. Super fresh with an oily texture.
Abbazia di Propezzano Colli Aprutini IGT Pecorino: Aromas of jasmine, thyme, and lemon with a nutty finish.
Terre dei Beati Giocheremo Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOC: White flowers, orange blossom, salinity. Great acidity. Beautiful round texture, a really stunning wine!!!
Jasci e Marchesani Nerubé Pecorino d’Abruzzo DOC: Dry and fresh, loaded with citrus flavors and an earthy finish.
Cataldi Madonna Giulia Terre d’Abruzzo IGT Pecorino: Incredibly clean and fresh style with linear acidity that makes it go down a little too easily.
Passerina:
Abbazia di Propezzano Colli Aprutini IGT Passerina: Unfiltered, no dosage pet nat. Orange peel, mandarin, super fresh. Very clean on the palate. I loved this wine.
Cantina Tollo Terre d’Abruzzo IGP: Lots of salinity. Lemon. Lime verbena. Citrus. Orange peel. Fresh and flavorful with a round, full body.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo:
Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva: Elegantly balanced with a silky smooth texture and concentrated dark cherry flavors with hints of spice.
Zappacosta Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC: Beautifully integrated flavors of red berries, violets, and licorice with a velvety rich palate and balanced acidity.
Valle Martello Villamagna DOC Riserva: A powerful Montepulciano with concentrated red fruit flavors layered with notes of vanilla, spice, and chocolate.
Castorani Jarno Appassimento: This was an interesting, deep, inky Montepulciano made in an appassimento style. The grapes were dried for 100 days prior to fermentation, concentrating sugars and flavors, resulting in an intense, high alcohol wine loaded with flavors of licorice, vanilla, and amarena.
Feudo Antico Tullum DOCG: A very well-balanced, velvety smooth Montepulciano with notes of amarena, licorice, and violets with refined tannins and a subtle touch of chocolate.
Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo:
Fontefico Fossimatto Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC: Cherry, strawberry, a bit of macchia. Notes of violets. More aromatic lift. A subtle licorice note.
Praesidium Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC: Bursting with notes of pomegranate, rose petals, and violets with a fresh, mineral-driven palate.
More Cerasuolo recommendations coming soon in a newsletter specifically about these wines.